[N8VEM: 18443] Oak S100 card cage?

[Vince Mulhollon]

I'm thinking of making an oak card cage for my 18 S100 slots. I've got the
original IEEE-696 physical parameters, is that good enough for all modern
N8VEM projects?

Nice thick oak to be non-flexible. Thinking a short "U" with the board at
the bottom and slots cut in the arms. Probably not coming up all the way
on the side of the cards. That rather firmly bolted to standard rack mount
shelf (heavy duty) bolted inside a steel rack case

Poly coated on all surfaces for humidity stability and it'll live in a
stable climate controlled area at constant temp/humidity anyway.

Will live inside a ventilated steel chassis I have access to for EMI/RFI
whatever. Thank you PCI/DSS financial regulations for forcing the
production of cool little networking device cases with great ventilation
and locks and access on all sides etc.

I have more than enough 'leet table saw skills to pull this off.

I'm thinking of two MBs one on top of another in the rack case. I've got
12U of space to hold these two MBs which will make a tight fit vertically
but probably survivable (Will have to model that extensively, maybe I can
get access to a 16U case...)

Crazy? Sane? Better idea? I can' t be the first guy in 40 years to think
of oak as a card cage material. Also are all the N8VEM cards under the
IEEE size standards around the perimeter? I've seen some mighty full cards
with "stuff" right up to the edge.

Curious if anyone tried it and the tannins in the oak made their pcb
corrode or poly finish sticks to rosin flux or something I haven't even
considered yet.

[J. Alexander Jacocks]

Vince,

I, too, am working on a wooden chassis, but I was going to use
hardwood plywood for mine. I'd be curious to see what you have in
mind.

- Alex

Post by Vince Mulhollon
I'm thinking of making an oak card cage for my 18 S100 slots. I've got the
original IEEE-696 physical parameters, is that good enough for all modern
N8VEM projects?
Nice thick oak to be non-flexible. Thinking a short "U" with the board at
the bottom and slots cut in the arms. Probably not coming up all the way on
the side of the cards. That rather firmly bolted to standard rack mount
shelf (heavy duty) bolted inside a steel rack case
Poly coated on all surfaces for humidity stability and it'll live in a
stable climate controlled area at constant temp/humidity anyway.
Will live inside a ventilated steel chassis I have access to for EMI/RFI
whatever. Thank you PCI/DSS financial regulations for forcing the
production of cool little networking device cases with great ventilation and
locks and access on all sides etc.
I have more than enough 'leet table saw skills to pull this off.
I'm thinking of two MBs one on top of another in the rack case. I've got
12U of space to hold these two MBs which will make a tight fit vertically
but probably survivable (Will have to model that extensively, maybe I can
get access to a 16U case...)
Crazy? Sane? Better idea? I can' t be the first guy in 40 years to think
of oak as a card cage material. Also are all the N8VEM cards under the IEEE
size standards around the perimeter? I've seen some mighty full cards with
"stuff" right up to the edge.
Curious if anyone tried it and the tannins in the oak made their pcb corrode
or poly finish sticks to rosin flux or something I haven't even considered
yet.
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[Vince Mulhollon]

Plywood's more dimensionally stable because the plys are aligned at
different angles, thats the good news. The bad news is even with the
"fancy" plywood blades that stuff chips pretty well depending on glue
bond. My luck is whenever I don't care what a plywood cut looks like, it
looks like it was cut with a laser, and when I really need nice edges its
inevitably not my lucky day. Of course there are tricks to that too, like
cutting really one really wide board and letting it chip out all it wants
and then ripping to width at the end of the project.

I'll have to think further about the whole wood issue.

Post by J. Alexander Jacocks
Vince,
I, too, am working on a wooden chassis, but I was going to use
hardwood plywood for mine. I'd be curious to see what you have in
mind.
- Alex

Post by Vince Mulhollon
I'm thinking of making an oak card cage for my 18 S100 slots. I've got

the

Post by Vince Mulhollon
original IEEE-696 physical parameters, is that good enough for all modern
N8VEM projects?
Nice thick oak to be non-flexible. Thinking a short "U" with the board

at

Post by Vince Mulhollon
the bottom and slots cut in the arms. Probably not coming up all the

way on

Post by Vince Mulhollon
the side of the cards. That rather firmly bolted to standard rack mount
shelf (heavy duty) bolted inside a steel rack case
Poly coated on all surfaces for humidity stability and it'll live in a
stable climate controlled area at constant temp/humidity anyway.
Will live inside a ventilated steel chassis I have access to for EMI/RFI
whatever. Thank you PCI/DSS financial regulations for forcing the
production of cool little networking device cases with great ventilation

and

Post by Vince Mulhollon
locks and access on all sides etc.
I have more than enough 'leet table saw skills to pull this off.
I'm thinking of two MBs one on top of another in the rack case. I've got
12U of space to hold these two MBs which will make a tight fit vertically
but probably survivable (Will have to model that extensively, maybe I can
get access to a 16U case...)
Crazy? Sane? Better idea? I can' t be the first guy in 40 years to

think

Post by Vince Mulhollon
of oak as a card cage material. Also are all the N8VEM cards under the

IEEE

Post by Vince Mulhollon
size standards around the perimeter? I've seen some mighty full cards

with

Post by Vince Mulhollon
"stuff" right up to the edge.
Curious if anyone tried it and the tannins in the oak made their pcb

corrode

Post by Vince Mulhollon
or poly finish sticks to rosin flux or something I haven't even

considered

Post by Vince Mulhollon
yet.
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[J. Alexander Jacocks]

Vince,

I've had good luck with applying painter's tape to the edge that I am
going to cut, and then removing it after I am done. That seems to
mostly control chipping.

- Alex

Post by Vince Mulhollon
Plywood's more dimensionally stable because the plys are aligned at
different angles, thats the good news. The bad news is even with the
"fancy" plywood blades that stuff chips pretty well depending on glue bond.
My luck is whenever I don't care what a plywood cut looks like, it looks
like it was cut with a laser, and when I really need nice edges its
inevitably not my lucky day. Of course there are tricks to that too, like
cutting really one really wide board and letting it chip out all it wants
and then ripping to width at the end of the project.
I'll have to think further about the whole wood issue.

Post by J. Alexander Jacocks
Vince,
I, too, am working on a wooden chassis, but I was going to use
hardwood plywood for mine. I'd be curious to see what you have in
mind.
- Alex

Post by Vince Mulhollon
I'm thinking of making an oak card cage for my 18 S100 slots. I've got the
original IEEE-696 physical parameters, is that good enough for all modern
N8VEM projects?
Nice thick oak to be non-flexible. Thinking a short "U" with the board at
the bottom and slots cut in the arms. Probably not coming up all the way on
the side of the cards. That rather firmly bolted to standard rack mount
shelf (heavy duty) bolted inside a steel rack case
Poly coated on all surfaces for humidity stability and it'll live in a
stable climate controlled area at constant temp/humidity anyway.
Will live inside a ventilated steel chassis I have access to for EMI/RFI
whatever. Thank you PCI/DSS financial regulations for forcing the
production of cool little networking device cases with great ventilation and
locks and access on all sides etc.
I have more than enough 'leet table saw skills to pull this off.
I'm thinking of two MBs one on top of another in the rack case. I've got
12U of space to hold these two MBs which will make a tight fit vertically
but probably survivable (Will have to model that extensively, maybe I can
get access to a 16U case...)
Crazy? Sane? Better idea? I can' t be the first guy in 40 years to think
of oak as a card cage material. Also are all the N8VEM cards under the IEEE
size standards around the perimeter? I've seen some mighty full cards with
"stuff" right up to the edge.
Curious if anyone tried it and the tannins in the oak made their pcb corrode
or poly finish sticks to rosin flux or something I haven't even considered
yet.
--
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[Alan Hightower]

Scoring the top ply with a utility knife before cutting or backing the
cut with another board are two other common techniques to prevent
chipping.

-Alan

Post by J. Alexander Jacocks
Vince,
I've had good luck with applying painter's tape to the edge that I am
going to cut, and then removing it after I am done. That seems to
mostly control chipping.
- Alex

original IEEE-696 physical parameters, is that good enough for all modern N8VEM projects? Nice thick oak to be non-flexible. Thinking a short "U" with the board at the bottom and slots cut in the arms. Probably not coming up all the way on the side of the cards. That rather firmly bolted to standard rack mount shelf (heavy duty) bolted inside a steel rack case Poly coated on all surfaces for humidity stability and it'll live in a stable climate controlled area at constant temp/humidity anyway. Will live inside a ventilated steel chassis I have access to for EMI/RFI whatever. Thank you PCI/DSS financial regulations for forcing the production of cool little networking device cases with great ventilation and locks and access on all sides etc. I have more than enough 'leet table saw skills to pull this off. I'm thinking of two MBs one on top of another in the rack case. I've got 12U of space to hold these two MBs which will make a tight fit vertically but probably survivable (Will have
to model that extensively, maybe I can get access to a 16U case...) Crazy? Sane? Better idea? I can' t be the first guy in 40 years to think of oak as a card cage material. Also are all the N8VEM cards under the IEEE size standards around the perimeter? I've seen some mighty full cards with "stuff" right up to the edge. Curious if anyone tried it and the tannins in the oak made their pcb corrode or poly finish sticks to rosin flux or something I haven't even considered yet. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "N8VEM" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to n8vem+***@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to n8vem-/JYPxA39Uh5TLH3MbocFF+G/***@public.gmane.org Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/n8vem [1]. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout [2]. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "N8VEM" group. To unsubscribe from this
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